Author Topic: critique's requested  (Read 11533 times)

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Bethrine

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critique's requested
« on: June 24, 2009, 05:46:27 AM »
Woohoo! Got the PDF up and running. So starting with the basics as I think LE suggested quite a while back. Walls, doors and windows. Keep in mind I have no engineer or PM giving me specific measurements so I went totally random on those (no dimensions yet) :ugly: I have assigned pen weights by color and layer. My small experience was in an MEP firm so all walls, doors and windows are background to me...I could use some schooling on the architectural. Make that a lot of schooling  :-) I'm also having a problem scaling it in the viewport but admittedly didn't spend a lot of time thinking about it up front. I can only print on 8.5 x 11 here so....
« Last Edit: June 24, 2009, 06:03:06 AM by Bethrine »

TimSpangler

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2009, 08:07:20 AM »
So far so good.

As far as door / window sizes,  We (the company I work for)  use one 3' door at the front and either a 2'8" single door or a 6' slider / patio door on the rear.  All bedrooms get 2'-6" door except owner's bedroom gets a 2'8" or (2) 2'6" depending one the size of the room.  All closet doors are 2'4" with the exception of the foyer / hall closet which we typically try to get a 2'8"- 3'0"  or (2) 2'4"  Bedrooms with long closets get (2) 2'-4" doors.  As far as window sizes the front typically get 3062 size on the first floor and 3052 everywhere else.

Room sizes are what ever fits.  We do try to keep bedrooms to a 9' min. so our smallest bedroom would be 9'x9'  The smallest owners bedroom would be 12'x12'.  Typical living spaces are limited to 12'x12'

I would get a copy of IRC2006 /09 Code book.  It is a wealth of information.  Also take into account that this is how "WE" do things, others may be doing things differently.  In any case get some "Standards" in place and stick to them.  One of the things I do is, I like to do Test projects.  Just like what you did here.  I use them to try differant thing and to see how things work together and how spaces layout.  Here is the last one I started (they typically never get finished  :roll: ).  On this project I was trying to minimize the second floor hallway space while maximizing room size and trying to stick to a 34' deep  box.
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Keith™

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2009, 09:40:47 AM »
I can understand the desire to want to be able to have honest critique and use it to learn a particular task, in this instance it happens to be architectural design, but there is so much more to architectural design than drawing a floorplan and dropping in windows and doors.

Tim hit the nail on the head when he suggested that you obtain the latest IRC because there are so many things that those of us who do design work take for granted as common knowledge. For example, Tim mentioned how his office determines door sizes, window sizes and room sizes, but what he didn't mention is the code issues behind how those selections are made.

First, lets look at room sizes. Using Tim's guidelines as a typical starting point is a good game plan, however, the IRC dictates the minimum room dimensions for every "habitable" room. Every residential structure must have at least one "habitable" room of at least 120sf and all "habitable" rooms must be at minimum 70sf. The other determining criteria is that the minimum dimension in either direction must be 7'-0". The lone exception is a kitchen. However, if the room has a flat ceiling less than 7'-0" then that area under the low portion of the ceiling does not count toward the total area required for the room to be in compliance; the same holds true for a sloped ceiling, except the minimum height for the sloped portion is 5'-0".

As you can see, something as benign as laying out rooms can become a logistical issue, particularly when dealing with the newest trend of homes under 1200sf.

Other things to remember are:

Net free clear glazing (lighting) in "habitable" rooms should be 10% of the floor area of the room or combined rooms they serve.

Net free openable portions of windows and doors (ventilation) should be 5% of the floor area of the room  or combined rooms they serve.

All hallways and passageways in the direction of egress must be a minimum of 36" after all finishes have been applied.

All sleeping rooms must have a secondary means of egress i.e. an exterior door or a window meeting egress requirements.

All sleeping rooms must have a clothes storage closet with a minimum depth of 24" after all finishes have been applied.

All stairs must have a 36"x36" clear landing at the top and bottom and must be a minimum of 36" wide after handrails, guardrails and all finishes have been applied (some jurisdictions exempt the handrail)

All exterior doors required for egress must be at least 36" wide and 6'-8" tall and must have a 36"x36" landing on each side except where there are two or less steps meeting the code for stairs.

In heavy snow jurisdictions, egress doors are typically required to open into the building (where the door would be subject to snow banking), while in high wind areas, all exterior doors are typically required to open to the outside of the building. This isn't in the IRC, however, it has been a result of many years of dealing with multiple jurisdictions across the country.

At least one sleeping room and at least one bathroom must have a door with a 29" net clear opening when the door is opened 90 degrees. Pocket doors are to be measured with the door in full open position.

Minimum space for a toilet is 30" wide after finishes are applied and 21" between the front and any wall or other fixture. The toilet also must be centered at least 15" off any adjacent wall or fixture.

Minimum clearance in front of any tub or shower entrance is 24"

As you can see there are many, and these are just a few .. keep plugging along and you will get there!
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TimSpangler

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2009, 10:02:25 AM »
Thanks Keith,

That's why I suggested the IRC.  I didn't want to have to go into all of the details, as you said those of us who work in this field take a lot of that for granted.
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Spike Wilbury

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2009, 10:18:50 AM »
Hola,

I think I mentioned the same before, not sure...


To me, it is much easier as a beginner and one that does not have any experience in the field or profession, to grab an existing drawing and simple to try to copy or reproduce everything in there - it does not matter for now that you do not know any of the code issues or standards and also don't worried for any drawing standards too.

craigr

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2009, 11:30:07 AM »
Interesting info.

I have always just ‘winged it’ when remodeling – not knowing where to go to get ‘the right way’ info.

I copied it to a file to keep for future reference.

Thanks,
craigr

Bob Garner

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2009, 02:49:03 PM »
Wow, this seems like a lot of information to learn!  But take it one step at a time.  I think Luis's suggestion is excellant and I recommend that, too.  Tim, could you explain your window sizing?  3062 to me is a 3'-0" x 6'-2" window (horizontal dimension always comes first) but that size doesn't seem right(?).  Are we metric here?

Remember, you eat an elephant one bite at a time.  And we're here to help (with drafting, not eating elephants).

Bob G.

TimSpangler

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2009, 02:56:37 PM »
Wow, this seems like a lot of information to learn!  But take it one step at a time.  I think Luis's suggestion is excellant and I recommend that, too.  Tim, could you explain your window sizing?  3062 to me is a 3'-0" x 6'-2" window (horizontal dimension always comes first) but that size doesn't seem right(?).  Are we metric here?

Remember, you eat an elephant one bite at a time.  And we're here to help (with drafting, not eating elephants).

Bob G.

You got it.  3'-0" wide by 6'-2" tall (R.O.)
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Bob Garner

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #8 on: June 24, 2009, 03:50:24 PM »
Thanks, Tim.

And Bethrine, you will find that HVAC ducting sizes are listed with the dimension of the duct showing in that view shown first.  In other words, a duct in plan view that is listed as 36"x24" is 36" wide in the plan view.  When you show the duct in an elevation view, you list the size as 24"x36".  Since the 24" dimension shows in that view, you list it first.

Just some more bits to help the elephant go down.


Bob G.

Keith™

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2009, 04:33:23 PM »
Bob, the reason many builders are using larger windows is due to the higher walls in most new construction. With a wall that is 9' or 10' and in some cases more than that, a typical 3052 would be dwarfed and wouldn't be appealing. In this instance we generally use larger windows and use either taller doors or transoms to raise the visual height of the fenestration
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mjfarrell

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2009, 04:41:31 PM »
did he just say fenestration???  !!!  ???   :lmao:
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Keith™

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #11 on: June 24, 2009, 04:49:15 PM »
did he just say fenestration???  !!!  ???   :lmao:

fen·es·tra·tion (fěn'ĭ-strā'shən) n.
1. The design and disposition of windows doors and other exterior openings of a building
2. An opening in the surface of a structure, as in a membrane
3. (Arch.) The arrangement and proportioning of windows and doors, and their ornaments

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Bethrine

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #12 on: June 24, 2009, 05:44:16 PM »
Wow! Awesome! I've got work to do, yeah!

I looked up "egress" too.  :-D

I lost my Dad early October last year and he's the one who told me how to eat an elephant...one bite at a time.  :cry:  :-) .

I would love to have actual dwg's to work on! If anyone feels like donating?  :angel:

I can always work on improving the "cottage" in between dwg critiques, too, using what you have all so wonderfully given me here...thanks! And I will see if I can get a hold of the IRC code book.

I suppose a linen closet and a laundry room would be excellent additions...lol...I'll work on the dimension adjustments and the scaling so that it becomes check-able (yes, I like to make up words...correctable, is that better  :evil:?)

~I just realised I am using smileys for punctuation, lol.

<edit> Thanks for the duct info, I was doing HVAC and plumbing redlines at my last job. Still can't believe how much I learned in just a few months! Though at the time I felt crippled by a lack of know how. Hindsite is 20/20.
« Last Edit: June 24, 2009, 05:49:07 PM by Bethrine »

Bethrine

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #13 on: June 25, 2009, 07:58:21 AM »
Midway update: This one's on ARCH C paper and should be to scale, 1/4"=1'. Didn't get to the windows tonight but tried to maintain the 1200 sq. foot limit with 4" walls...that was harder than I thought  :-), and used Keith's info because I was curious with the minimums involved (doors and room sizes). I am aware that some walls are supposed to be 6" because they are fire walls (behind the stove and the room the water heater is in I think) but not quite there yet.

<edit> I should use a darker pen for now for readability, the magenta square is my viewport and yes, I'm aware my file name has pdf.pdf <sigh>
« Last Edit: June 25, 2009, 08:01:42 AM by Bethrine »

Keith™

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Re: critique's requested
« Reply #14 on: June 25, 2009, 08:50:12 AM »
I have several suggestions about the plan you have so far.

Design aspects:
For doors and windows, you should try to maintain a minimum 3" of clearance on each side of the jamb of the rough opening. For example, a typical 2'-8" interior door has a rough opening of 34", that means you should try to maintain at least 40" between parallel walls that are perpendicular to the door. This will maintain enough room on each side so the door casing can be applied, otherwise you have a door with casing that has been butchered, and it looks like crap.



Try to place closets on interior walls or on walls that are not important for curb appeal. For example you have a closet on the front wall of the front bedroom, this will create an unappealing front facade. Any other wall would be better, then your windows can be placed on the front wall. The house will look much better this way.

When placing closet doors, particularly when the closets are very long, try to center the doors over the length of the closet, provided it works aesthetically. Not only will it look better, but the deeper portions of the closet will be accessible to the occupants. In instances where even a centered door provides poor access to areas of the closet, consider adding another door and/or consider splitting the closet into his/her spaces.

You don't currently have a designated dining area, this isn't a deal breaker as many homes of this size simply utilize a breakfast bar as the sole dining area, however, by creating a distinct dining space, you increase the functionality of the home. Of course in today's society, with the restaurant being the main dining experience, it may be desirable to not have one. This will be a judgement call, but if the space can do dual duty, it will fit both lifestyles.

The home is decidedly square. I don't know what the dimensions are, but you should consider whether the look of the home will fit into what you are expecting. While a square home isn't necessarily bad, it does give the impression of a box from the outside and it severely curtails the roof options, since a hipped roof design will look like a pyramid atop the walls, and unless that is your intent, I'm not sure that it works.

Laundry areas are a place where people seldom like to visit and as a result, it can be reduced in size, functional yet compact. In a home of 1200sf, there is no room for extravagance, and the space could be better utilized as pantry space or a second bathroom.

I'll leave it at that for the moment. In the meantime, I'll post a 1100sf plan that has 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and a dining area, but it will take me some time to put it together.
« Last Edit: June 25, 2009, 08:56:54 AM by Keith™ »
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